The collection that stirred the most buzz at the Spring/Summer 2024 fashion shows was notably absent. Phoebe Philo, who has not yet introduced the inaugural pieces of her self-named brand—initially expected to launch online in September, six years following her exit from Céline—captured the fashion headlines all month long. Amid accumulating Spring/Summer 2024 fashion trends, designers were on edge, anxious over the possibility that their own collections might be overshadowed by an unexpected online release from Philo, a figure many idolize as the savior of fashion.
Her legendary status as a pivotal figure in the industry was further amplified with the announcement that the Spring/Summer 2024 show would mark Sarah Burton’s final collection for Alexander McQueen, alongside Gabriela Hearst’s departure from Chloé. New arrivals include Sabato de Sarno at Gucci, Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, Peter Do at Helmut Lang, and Louise Trotter at Carven. This raises the question: Is there a gender imbalance among designers in fashion? Within LVMH, the largest luxury group globally, only Dior and Pucci boast female creative directors. Meanwhile, Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo independently manage their namesake brands. Kering, the industry’s second-largest conglomerate, lacks female leadership and diversity, with no brands under the direction of a woman or a person of color.
This challenging scenario, coupled with a grim economic and political landscape, led designers to adopt a cautious approach for the Spring/Summer 2024 collections. The color scheme was subdued, with black and white overshadowing the vibrant hues typically associated with summer lines. Only a few shades, like a striking red, broke through the restrained palette. The recent movement towards body positivity – and the trend for nude aesthetics – seems to be waning, diminishing the diversity of body types once seen on the runways.
Outlandish gowns are taking a back seat to a more subdued elegance—anchored by essentials like trench coats, pencil skirts, tailored suits, and quality jeans. Tagwalk, a fashion search platform, analyzed over 11,000 images from the Spring/Summer 2024 collections in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, revealing a 46% increase in “minimalism” tags compared to the Spring/Summer 2023 season. In contrast, logos saw a 52% decrease, while ’90s-inspired styles rose by 42%, also becoming the most popular search term. This resurgence of ’90s style aligns with the upcoming 25th anniversary of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy’s death, reflecting a shift towards the decade’s low-key New York glamour, reminiscent of the iconic Calvin Klein publicist.
What’s on the fashion agenda for next year? Fortunately, your closet likely already contains the foundational pieces for Spring, with strategic accents—like a pop of red or a crisp white shirt—refreshing your look effortlessly. Classics such as ballerinas, Mary-Janes, and sharp blazers remain timeless choices. The once-frowned-upon practice of lugging around a bowling bag filled with essentials and the unexpected, endorsed by Miuccia Prada and Miu Miu, now celebrates practical beauty and the individuality it brings. Prada’s latest show championed “not beauty, but beauties,” celebrating unique characters and the joy of life, offering a moment of shared happiness in these modern times.
